In the ever-evolving world of skincare, it's fascinating to look back at the trends and practices of the past. The 70s, 80s, and 90s were a time when skincare wisdom was often misguided, with many well-intentioned practices doing more harm than good. Now, with the benefit of modern knowledge and technology, we can look back and see the mistakes that dermatologists are begging us to leave in the past. From alcohol-heavy toners to sunbeds and harsh face scrubs, these are the skincare mistakes that we now know to avoid.
One of the biggest mistakes of the past was the emphasis on 'squeaky clean' skin, which led to the widespread use of alcohol-heavy toners and astringents. These products were marketed as the solution for oil control and breakouts, but in reality, they often compromised the skin barrier. As Kimberley Medd, Clinical Manager of Face the Future, explains, "Many people mistook tightness for cleanliness when it was actually a sign of inflammation. High concentrations of alcohol strip more than excess oil, but essential lipids that help maintain barrier function, leading to transepidermal water loss, skin irritation, rebound oil production, and even worsening breakouts."
Another mistake was the belief that sun exposure and sunbeds were beneficial for acne. Many people thought that sunbathing 'dried out' pimples, but in reality, it only damaged the skin further. As Medd notes, "Now we understand that there is no such thing as a safe tan, as UV exposure accelerates photoaging, increases pigmentation issues, and significantly raises the risk of skin cancer. Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is now non-negotiable, and should be worn daily."
The use of abrasive face scrubs was also a big mistake. These products, often made with crushed walnut shells or large, irregular particles, created microscopic tears in the skin, impairing the skin barrier and triggering sensitivity. As Medd explains, "Over time, this impairs the skin barrier, triggers sensitivity, exacerbates conditions such as rosacea, and contributes to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, particularly in deeper skin tones."
The idea that skipping moisturizer was a good idea was another mistake. In the 80s, oil control was everything, and matte skin was the goal. This led to the dominance of toners, alcohol-based astringents, and foaming cleansers. As Medd notes, "Sebum isn’t the enemy; it’s part of the skin’s natural defense system. Simply put, moisturize, no matter what skin type you have! Understanding that hydration and oil are not the same thing. Oily skin can still be dehydrated."
Pore strips were also a mistake, as they physically remove the top of a comedone and some sebaceous filaments, but didn't address the underlying oil production or follicular blockage. As Medd explains, "Today, salicylic acid remains the gold standard because it’s oil-soluble and can penetrate the pore lining, plus correct use of retinoids can normalize cell turnover and prevent congestion forming in the first place."
Finally, the aggressive acne treatments of the 90s were a mistake. The 'cleanse, tone, strip' philosophy, often twice daily with quite aggressive formulas, was not effective and could be harmful. As Medd notes, "Today, it's all about understanding the root cause, with gentle cleansers and topical retinoids."
In conclusion, the skincare mistakes of the past were often well-intentioned, but they were misguided. With the benefit of modern knowledge and technology, we can now avoid these mistakes and take a more informed and effective approach to skincare. As Medd says, "Today, we focus on balancing rather than stripping with ingredients like niacinamide, azelaic acid, green tea extract, and gentle PHAs, which can help regulate oil production and calm inflammation without disrupting the microbiome. Hydration and barrier repair are now considered foundational, even for acne-prone skin."
